Beauty supplements: hair, skin, collagen, what is actually proven

In short:

1. Beauty supplements may only use authorised claims: they talk about maintaining normal hair, nails and skin, never about rejuvenation.
2. For hair: biotin, zinc and selenium. For skin: vitamin A, biotin, zinc, riboflavin, niacin, iodine. For collagen: vitamin C contributes to its normal formation.
3. At the time of writing, no claim is authorised for collagen itself in the EU register.
4. Sudden hair loss, skin that changes abruptly or pregnancy call for medical advice before any supplement.

The beauty aisle is where the promises are the boldest and the evidence the most discreet. On beauty supplement labels, in supermarkets and pharmacies alike, you read “radiant skin”, “stronger hair”, “anti-ageing effect”. What European regulations allow brands to say is far more sober. Here is how to sort things out, nutrient by nutrient.

Beauty supplements: what regulations allow brands to say

Like all food supplements, beauty products fall under Regulation (EC) No 1924/2006¹. A brand may only use claims listed in the EU register², under the conditions set out there.

For beauty, these claims all take the same form: a nutrient contributes to the maintenance of normal hair, nails or skin. They describe normal functioning, which can be lost in case of insufficient intake. They do not say that a supplement beautifies, rejuvenates or makes hair grow.

Hair: biotin, zinc and selenium

For hair, three nutrients appear on almost every label, and they are indeed the ones with a claim: biotin, zinc and selenium. Copper completes the list for pigmentation.

What to remember:

• These nutrients help if your intake is insufficient. If your diet already covers them, adding more will not make your hair “stronger”.
• Watch out for zinc: EFSA sets the tolerable upper intake level at 25 mg a day for adults. By combining a hair supplement, a multivitamin and an “immunity” product, you can get close to it.
• Significant or sudden hair loss can have many causes (hormonal, nutritional, medical). It deserves a medical consultation before any supplementation.

Skin: the nutrients that matter

The skin needs many micronutrients, and several have a claim: vitamin A, biotin, zinc, riboflavin, niacin, iodine, and vitamin C for collagen formation. The good news is that a varied diet provides almost all of them.

Foods to favour for the skin: citrus fruit, kiwi and peppers for vitamin C, orange and green vegetables for beta-carotene (provitamin A), seafood and seeds for zinc, oily fish for omega-3. The article on micronutrition and diet details these sources.

Collagen: what we really know

Collagen is the star of the beauty aisle. It is the most abundant protein in the body, found in skin, bones, tendons and cartilage. As a supplement, it comes as hydrolysed collagen peptides, of marine, bovine or porcine origin.

The point few labels highlight: at the time of writing, no health claim is authorised for collagen itself in the EU register. When a collagen supplement displays a claim on the skin, it usually relies on the vitamin C added to the formula, which contributes to normal collagen formation.

This does not mean collagen is useless, but that no claim has been validated for it to date. The full collagen fact sheet covers its origins, peptides, doses and how to read the label.

Women’s health: specific needs

Beyond beauty, some needs are specific to women, while much of the nutrition advice aimed at athletes is designed with men in mind. A few pointers:

• Iron: menstrual losses increase needs. Iron supplementation should only be decided after a blood test, as excess iron is not harmless.
• Folate: during pregnancy, health authorities recommend a folic acid intake before conception and in early pregnancy. The dose is decided with a doctor or midwife.
• Vitamin D and calcium: they contribute to the maintenance of normal bones, an issue that grows in importance with age, especially after menopause. The guide vitamins and minerals: roles and needs gives the official benchmarks.

How to choose a beauty supplement

1. Look for the claim: if the pack promises an effect that does not appear in the EU register, move on.
2. Look at the doses against the nutrient reference values, and watch for overlap with your other supplements.
3. Look at the form and origin of collagen (marine, bovine), and whether vitamin C is included.
4. Set aside endless formulas that mix twenty ingredients at token doses.

To understand the rules common to all supplements, the guide to food supplements and their regulation is a good starting point. And to compare manufacturers, read the ranking of the best food supplement brands.

Frequently asked questions

Sources